Articles, Blog

Bass Fishing Questions Answered! | Bass Fishing

Bass Fishing Questions Answered! | Bass Fishing


Glenn: There we go. Good fish. Here we go. Stay down. Come here. Here we go, baby. Come on aboard. Look at that. How do you like that, guys? Wow. Again, just right in the roof of the mouth. That’s where you want him. That’s a good fish right there. All right. Nice four-pounder right here. All right. Ready? Hey, folks, Glenn May here at BassResource.com. And today I’m going to answer a bunch of questions
that we received over the past couple of months via our Facebook page and also via email and
I hope that it answers your questions as well. And we got a lot of really good ones. So listen up. This is going to be an education dump today. Starting with this first question. “Hey Glenn, when I’m fishing heavy cover,
what rod and reel is best suited for making a long cast with light lures?” All right, so this is a tricky one because
typically when you’re fishing heavy cover, you want to use a stout rod and reel to wrench
those fish out of the cover. But here you’re asking, “How do I get longer
casts with light lure? How do I do that and still fish heavy cover?” So for the rod, I would fish a seven-foot,
medium-heavy rod with a moderate action tip. Okay? Medium-heavy power rod, moderate action. That moderate piece is really what you want. You can go with fast action as well but not
extra fast. What that does is the tip of the rod is a
lot more flexible, so it’s going to allow you to use that tip of the rod to throw that
light lure longer. But the rest of the rod is, you know, medium-heavy
has got that stout action that you’re going to need for wrenching fish out of that heavy
cover and being able to control them. So you’ve got kind of a balance of both. The reel would be a baitcasting reel but really
what’s important on that is a couple of things. First of all, you have the ability to control
the brakes on it, so at least that has both the mechanical and magnetic brakes on it. I prefer to have reels that have mechanical,
magnetic and pin breaks, all three of them. That really helps me fine-tune the action
on it and the castability on it. Especially when fishing light lures, you need
to have those little fine-tune adjustments to be able to avoid getting lots of backlashes. The other component is to use braided line
but lighter braided line. So in heavy cover, typically you’re fishing
40-50 pound braid or more even 65-pound braid. But that’s going to limit your casting distance
due to its heavyweight and it doesn’t peel off the reel as fast as easily. So I would go down to about a 20-pound test
braided line, that comes off the spool a lot easier, a lot smoother, and it’s gonna allow
you to make those longer casts. I hope that helps. So this question is about jig fishing. Other than using a heavier jig, what suggestions
do you have to help me detect strikes while jig fishing? Well, honestly, I wouldn’t use a heavier jig,
to begin with, because the lighter the jig you can get away with the more strikes you’re
going to get. Because most of the bites occur on the fall. So the slower it’s falling, the more it’s
in that strike zone, the more apt it is to get bit. So to detect those strikes there’s really
two main things that I do. One of them is as it’s falling I pay super
close attention to the line, whether I’m using braid or fluorocarbon, I really focus on where
that line is entering the water and pay close attention. If it jumps, twitches, moves to one side or
maybe even it accelerates faster as it’s falling, that’s usually something on the other end
of the line messing with it, usually a bass. So just visually seeing that change can help
you detect strikes. I also do a countdown method, by the way. If I’m, you know, throwing a jig and I count
one, two, three, okay, hit the bottom. And I can make another cast, one, two, three,
almost four and it hits the bottom. So I’ve got an idea between three and four-count
hits the bottom and I make a cast one, two. Okay. Well sometimes bass come up and grab it and
they just hold onto it. And so when it just suddenly stops for no
reason, set the hook, that might be a bass. So again, really paying close attention to
that jig while it’s falling. The other thing I do is once that jig is on
the bottom, I like to hold the rod tip up at an angle above the nine o’clock position. So I have a better connection between the
rod and the line and the jig that’s down there. That helps me feel any kind of movement, a
slight subtle pick up, a light strike. With a line being tight like that, it’ll transmit
that down the line onto the rod and down into my hands. And I have a better feel so I can feel those
bites that I may not see on a tight line. So with those two things combined, I think
I’m going to catch a lot more fish. Hope that helps. There you go. Nice. They’re in here. Keri: Come here you. Glenn is getting a net. Come here, baby. Come here. Come here. Oh, come on, Glenn. Come on, Glenn. There we go. There we go. He’s got a sore on his tongue. Yeah, he does. Glenn: He’s all right. There you go. He’s very resilient. All right. Here’s a good question about budget and baitcasting
reels. “If I can afford to buy only one quality baitcasting
reel, what gear ratio would you recommend?” All right, so you need a baitcasting reel
that’s going to do a variety of things. So that kind of wipes out the bookends of
the big casting world. So like a 4.7:1 gear ratio that’s really low
or maybe even a 3 something that’s a real low gear ratio. It has a lot of power, great for fishing,
you know, heavy cover but that’s not going to help you when you’re fishing say buzzbaits,
spinnerbaits and crankbaits. On the other end of the spectrum you have
you know, 8:1, 9:1, even I think there’s some reels over 10. Those are high-speed reels, great for fishing
those faster moving lures but they don’t have a lot of power for when you’re fishing, say,
flipping and pitching into heavy cover. So you need something in the middle. For me, I like reels… Most of my reels are between 6.8:1 and to
7.5:1. That’s the majority of my reels because those
are pretty much all-purpose, multi-purpose. You can use them for a variety of applications
and you’re not really sacrificing anything. So that’s the main thing I would look for
from a gear ratio. But if, again, I had a tight budget and I’m
looking for a reel, I don’t think gear ratio would be the primary thing I’m looking for
primarily because there’s a lot of great reels out there that come in those gear ratios. So I would look at other things. For example, the drag. How powerful is the drag? I don’t like any reels that are less than
14-pound drag. I like something that’s got a real good strong
stout drag. Typically that also means a smoother drag
because it’s a better drag system. Also the ability to control your casting. So different casts control, the more it has,
the better. Yeah, great if it has a mechanical cast control
but if it has that paired with magnetic, that helps me fine-tune, say, in windy conditions. And if it also comes with pin cast control
on it, that helps me fine-tune it even further for the different types of lures, weights
and different styles and types of fishing that I’m doing. So those are the type of things I’d really
focus on first before I look at gear ratio. I hope that helps and I hope you get yourself
a great reel. Here’s a question about crankbait fishing. “What would you say are the two most important
elements in crankbait fishing?” Well, it’s funny, all of us bass anglers we
tend to focus on color. But the reality is, you know, color, size
of the lure, those types of things actually are very important. But what I look at first is how deep that
lure is going to run and how fast or slow can I retrieve it? Because that’s about the presentation. First of all, getting it down to the right
depth. You need to get the lure where the fish is,
otherwise, it doesn’t matter. All the other elements mean nothing because
you’re not going to get bit. So that’s like the primary one. How deep does it run? If the fish are shallow, fishing a deep diving
crankbait isn’t going to get bit and vice versa. So number one, how deep does this crankbait
go for where the fish are that day? The other thing I really look for is how fast
of a retrieve or slow of a retrieve does it need? Some days fish want to attack fast-moving
lures, so I want to lure that can get down to that depth and I can retrieve it at a fast
speed. Other times they want something that’s barely
moving, so that requires a deeper diving crankbait, for example, that can stay down and still
move slow. So those are the two primary things that are
really important for me and crankbaits. Then, you know, not to say there’s other elements
that aren’t important because after those two pieces, then I look at things, for example,
like the size of the bait or the color. I hope that helps. Hope you catch a lot more crankbait fish. Here’s a great question for bank fishermen. “Glenn, what are the most important things
you look for when you’re fishing from the shoreline?” Well, there’s really two main things that
I look for when I’m fishing a shoreline. One, I want to find deeper cuts and deeper
water near the shoreline. Those types of things. Like, for example, a creek channel and a little
bend comes in close to the water or maybe there’s a small little flat but right near
it there’s a drop. Those depth changes are the things that really
attract bass. It doesn’t have to be super deep, it just
has to be a change in bottom contour to attract bass. So that’s number one. And the other thing is cover. Bass need some kind of cover to relate to. It might be weeds, it might be rocks, it could
be laydowns or maybe a log is on the water or stumps but you have a contour change that
is combined with some sort of cover and those are the things I’m going to target when I’m
shoreline fishing. Here’s a great question that all of us can
relate to. “Hey, besides telling me you’re as frustrated
with the wind as I am, really are there any advantages to fishing in the wind or should
you just stay at home?” That’s really a good question because, man,
I could fish in rain, I could fish in cold, I could fish in heat. But man, when it is windy out, that wears
you out sometimes for a lot of reasons. It’s hard to control the boat. It’s hard to cast. It’s hard to control your presentation. Really other than having an extreme windy
condition where it’s not safe out, there is adage to, a saying, “The wind is a fisherman’s
friend.” It actually can be a good thing for several
reasons and I’m just going to hit a few of them. One of them is that it breaks up the light
penetration and when that happens bass tend to roam more freely. They tend to be more aggressive and it conceals
and kind of camouflages your lure a little bit more. So, for example, if you’re fishing the spinnerbait,
it makes it look a little more lively, more realistic and the bass are more apt to hit
it. So that’s number one. And another reason is, the water can be oxygenated
more with wind. Especially if you’re fishing, say, in the
summertime when the water temperatures are really high and the water has less of capability
of holding dissolved oxygen, you get a lot of wind and it’ll churn up that surface and
it’ll get some oxygen going and that will get the whole food chain going. Bass will move up shallower and they’ll feed
on those baitfish that are moving up shallow feeding upon all the plankton in all the algae
that’s been worked free from the waves and the wind. Wind also, if it’s been blowing a consistent
direction for quite a while, at least several hours, it can produce some amount of current,
not a ton but a little bit of current is better than none and bass will set up on those breakpoints. If you’ve got, say, for example, bridge pilings
or you’ve got a point and the winds going across the point or those chokepoints where
there’s narrow areas that the water can get through with the winds blowing right down
through it, bass will set up on those areas and will ambush whatever lure you bring by. Also, wind can turn on areas where typically
they’re not productive. I have a spot on a lake that I fish, it’s
a stretch of rip rap. The water’s really clear and typically when
you go through there with crankbaits, jigs or drop shots, what have you, you pick up
a couple of fish here and there but it’s not all that productive. However, I’ve learned when the wind picks
up and it’s anything over say 12,13 miles an hour, the stronger the better and is blowing
right up against that rip rap, man, I run to that spot because I’ve had days where I’m
catching literally every cast, every single cast with crankbaits. It’s a bonanza. I’ll catch 25, 30 fish in a matter of 45 minutes. So wind can really turn on an area that way. Wind also can create mud lines. If it’s hitting the shoreline, you’ve probably
noticed this with a lot of wind in areas that have this loose topsoil, you’ll find this
mud that comes out five, six feet, maybe more off the shoreline. Well, the fish will use that mud line just
like it would a weed line. They’ll conceal themselves right inside that
muddy water and then they’ll jump out and hit any baitfish that happen by. So if you fish that mud line, you can get
really productive results. So wind can be really productive. It can really help you fish areas that otherwise
are not productive or can turn a non-productive day into a fishing bonanza. Just be safe out there. If you don’t feel comfortable out there, you
feel like you’re in danger, get off that water. Fishing is supposed to be fun guys, so don’t
risk your life just to catch a few fish. All right. That’s it for today’s questions. If I didn’t get to yours, don’t worry, we’re
going to do a lot more in the weeks to come. And if you have any questions that you’ve
thought about while watching this, hey, feel free to hit me up at this email down below
or come to our Facebook page and leave us a message and hopefully, we’ll get to your
question soon. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
BassResource.com.

3 comments

Thanks for the info. When the weather starts to cool and just the top of the water is cool but lower is warmer what do u fish? I hope that makes sense. Early fall.

What specific reels do. You like for people starting out with baicasters? I was thinking of getting a SLX DC reel since I figured the dc would help lessen the learning curve? Any thoughts or other reel suggestions? Thanks for all the great videos and an awesome website!!

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *